Are Andaman and Nicobar Islands Worth Visiting?

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Are Andaman and Nicobar Islands Worth Visiting?

Last updated: April 2026 · 12 min read

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands sit roughly 1,200 km east of mainland India in the Bay of Bengal, closer to Myanmar and Thailand than to Chennai. The archipelago has 572 islands on paper, but only about 38 are inhabited and just a handful are open to tourists. The real reason most Indians fly out here's Radhanagar Beach on Havelock, which Time magazine ranked Asia's best beach back in 2004 - that ranking still does the heavy lifting for the union territory's marketing today. The Nicobar group is closed to foreign tourists entirely and requires a hard-to-get permit even for Indians, so when people say "Andaman trip" they almost always mean three islands: Havelock, Neil, and Port Blair.

I went there with my partner in February 2025 - flew Chennai to Port Blair on IndiGo, took the Makruzz ferry to Havelock, then Neil, then back. Seven nights total. So this piece is everything I wish someone had told me before booking, including where it disappointed me and why I'd still go back. If you only have four days off work, scroll to "Where Andaman falls short" first.

TL;DR: Worth it for Radhanagar Beach, scuba diving in the Andaman Sea, and the Cellular Jail history walk. Not worth it if you only have 4 days, hate ferries, or expect Maldives-tier resorts. A couple traveling for 7 days from Chennai or Kolkata should budget INR 60,000 to 1,20,000 all-in depending on whether you stay at Symphony Palms or Taj Exotica. Book ferries 30+ days out - Makruzz sells out for December.

The honest case for visiting (and the case against)

The case for: Radhanagar is genuinely beautiful, the diving is the cheapest open-water certification in India, and the Cellular Jail's Light & Sound show is one of the better historical experiences I've sat through. Water visibility around Havelock in January-February hits 25 meters on good days. Real wildlife too , saltwater crocs at Wandoor (don't swim), reef sharks while diving, bioluminescent plankton at Havelock Beach No. 5 some nights.

The case against: getting there's a pain. No international flights, so even foreign tourists transit through Chennai, Kolkata, or Delhi. Ferry weather cancellations are routine from May through September, and the islands shut down by 9 PM. Food is mid-tier. If you're coming from Phuket or Bali expecting the same beach club energy, you'll be disappointed by 7 PM on day one.

Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep) . The actual draw

Havelock was renamed Swaraj Dweep in 2018, but every ferry ticket, hotel signboard, and Google Maps pin still says Havelock. This is the island worth your time. It's about 38 km from Port Blair, two hours by Makruzz, and most travelers spend three to four nights here.

Radhanagar Beach (Beach No. 7): Long, wide, white-sand crescent on the western side. Sunset is the move , get there by 4:30 PM, walk the full 2 km of sand, stay for the after-glow. Entry is free, changing rooms INR 20, coconut water INR 80. No water sports here, which I respected.

Kalapathar Beach: Sunrise spot on the eastern edge, about 12 km from the jetty. Black rocks against turquoise water, very few people at 6 AM, chai stalls open by 6:30. Skip if you're not a sunrise person.

Elephant Beach: A 20-minute speedboat from Havelock jetty (round trip INR 1,000-1,200 per head) or a 1.5-hour jungle trek I don't recommend after rain. This is where the snorkel and parasailing operators set up. Expect crowds.

Where to stay on Havelock:
- Symphony Palms Beach Resort: ~INR 8,500 per night for a garden cottage in February. Decent pool, mediocre breakfast buffet, walk to Beach No. 5.
- Coral Reef Resort: ~INR 5,500 per night, basic but clean.
- Taj Exotica Resort & Spa: ~INR 22,000 to 38,000 per night. The only true premium property on the island, and even this is more "raised boutique" than over-water-villa luxury.
- Barefoot at Havelock: ~INR 14,000 per night for an Andaman villa. Great location near Radhanagar, eco-property, no air conditioning in the cheaper tents.

Neil Island (Shaheed Dweep) , quieter, smaller, worth one full day

Neil is 40 minutes from Havelock by Makruzz and a different vibe - fewer cafes, fewer divers, more cycling locals, almost no nightlife at all. Two nights is the right amount; one is too short, three is too long unless you're writing a book.

Bharatpur Beach: Right next to the Neil jetty. Shallow lagoon with healthy coral patches you can reach by walking out at low tide. Glass-bottom boat rides INR 500-700 per head, sea-walking INR 3,500.

Natural Bridge (Howrah Bridge): A coral rock formation shaped like an arch. Only visible at low tide - check the tide chart before riding out. Locals charge INR 100-200 to guide you across. Wear closed shoes; coral cuts.

Laxmanpur Beach: Long sunset beach on the western side. The drive passes paddy fields and betel-nut groves. Few facilities, which is the point.

Where to stay on Neil: Summer Sand (INR 6,500-9,000), Pearl Park Beach Resort (INR 4,500-6,000). No Taj on Neil yet.

Port Blair - one full day, that's it

Port Blair is the capital, the only airport island, and frankly the least interesting place to spend time on. But you can't skip it because every flight lands here and the Cellular Jail is genuinely a stop you should make.

Cellular Jail National Memorial: The colonial-era prison where Indian freedom fighters were held in solitary, far from the mainland by design. Light & Sound show at 6 PM (English) and 7:15 PM (Hindi), tickets INR 50, worth the hour. Day museum entry is INR 30 separate. Veer Savarkar's cell is preserved.

Corbyn's Cove Beach: 20 minutes from town. Fine for a quick swim, but skip if you've done Havelock and Neil.

Marina Park & Aberdeen Bazaar: Walking-distance from most Port Blair hotels. Buy souvenirs here (shell jewelry . Check it's legally sourced, real coral is banned).

Anthropological Museum: Small but the only legitimate place to learn about the Andamanese, Onge, Jarawa, and Sentinelese peoples. Entry INR 20. The Sentinelese exhibits are sobering - that tribe has rejected outside contact for thousands of years and is legally protected under the Andaman and Nicobar Islands (Protection of Aboriginal Tribes) Regulation, 1956. Don't be the person who tries to "see" them.

Scuba diving Havelock . The actual reason a lot of people come

Havelock is the cheapest place in India to get a PADI Open Water certification, and the dive sites around it (Lighthouse, Aquarium, Johnny's Gorge, Dixon's Pinnacle) are honest 7/10s for the region , not Raja Ampat, but better than anything else in India.

Operators I'd recommend:
- Barefoot Scuba: PADI Open Water 4-day course around INR 28,000 including manual, certification fees, and 4 dives. The instructors I met spoke clear English and Hindi, and the boats run on time.
- Dive India: SSI Open Water around INR 26,000-27,000. Slightly cheaper, similar quality.
- Doongi Dives: Smaller operator, good for advanced certifications and specialty courses (deep, nitrox).

Single fun dive (already certified): INR 4,500-6,000 per dive depending on site distance.
Discover Scuba (uncertified, just one supervised dive): INR 4,500-5,500.
Advanced Open Water: INR 22,000-26,000.

Ross & Smith Islands (a day trip from Diglipur in North Andaman, not Havelock) are for divers extending the trip - but Diglipur is a 12-hour overnight ferry from Port Blair, so add 3 days. Most weeklong trips skip it.

Snorkeling without scuba

If you don't want to dive but still want to see fish:
- Elephant Beach snorkel package: INR 700-1,000 per head including mask, fins, life jacket, and 30 minutes in water. So visibility is fine, not amazing. - Bharatpur Beach (Neil): Free with your own gear, or rent for INR 200/hour. - Lakshmanpur Beach (Neil): Quieter, fewer fish . Better for swimming. - Glass-bottom boats: INR 500-700 per head, 30 minutes. Fine for kids, dull otherwise.

North Bay & Ross Island , half-day combo from Port Blair

A government-run combo from Phoenix Bay Jetty in Port Blair: North Bay Island (snorkel, water sports) plus Ross Island (Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Dweep, old British naval HQ destroyed by the 1941 earthquake).

Combo ferry around INR 700 per head. Ross Island is the better half - overgrown ruins of the British church, ballroom, and bakery, with deer wandering the paths. Evening Light & Sound show here too. Shoot for the morning slot so the show fits your Port Blair night.

For more island-style trips around the broader region, see most beautiful beaches in Australia for tourists and best country in Asia to travel and visit.

Getting there , flights, ferries, and the chain of bookings

There's no train, no bus, and no road link to the Andamans. You fly to Veer Savarkar International Airport (IXZ) in Port Blair from one of these mainland cities:

Chennai (MAA): 2 hr 10 min direct. Cheapest option from South India. IndiGo, Air India, Air India Express. INR 4,500-9,000 one-way booked 30 days out.
Kolkata (CCU): 2 hr direct. Same airlines.
Bangalore (BLR): 2 hr 45 min direct or via Chennai. INR 6,000-12,000.
Delhi (DEL): Almost always one-stop via Chennai or Kolkata. 5-7 hours total.

Despite the name, the airline called Andaman Airlines doesn't operate scheduled commercial passenger flights between mainland and Port Blair . For the latest direct schedules, check IndiGo and Air India.

Inter-island ferries:
- Makruzz Pearl / Gold: Premium catamaran. Port Blair to Havelock: INR 1,500 (Premium) to INR 2,000 (Royal). 90 minutes. Air-conditioned, assigned seats. Book 30 days out for December-January.
- Green Ocean 1 & 2: Mid-tier. INR 1,200-1,500. Slightly slower.
- Government ferries (DSS): INR 350-600. 2.5-3 hours, deck or chair-class seating, no AC, often delayed. Tickets only available 2-3 days in advance from Phoenix Bay counter.

I took Makruzz both legs and would do the same again - the time saved is worth the extra INR 1,000.

Best time to visit - and when to absolutely skip

November to mid-April: Dry season. Calm seas, ferries run reliably, visibility is good for diving. December 20 to January 5 is peak tourist season - book hotels and ferries 60+ days out and expect 30-50% premium pricing.

Mid-April to May: Shoulder. Hotter, fewer crowds, ferries still mostly run. Decent value.

May to September: Southwest monsoon. I would not go. Heavy rain, rough seas, ferry cancellations are routine, dive operators close many sites. Some hotels close entirely.

October to early November: Northeast monsoon transition. Mixed conditions, occasional cyclones from the Bay of Bengal.

If you've flexibility, late January through mid-March is the sweet spot . Past peak crowds, ahead of summer heat, full ferry schedules.

Permits - what's required and what's closed

For Indian citizens: No permit needed for the Andaman group (Port Blair, Havelock, Neil, North Bay, Ross, etc.). For the Nicobar group, an entry permit is required and is essentially restricted to research, government, and indigenous-affairs work , tourist permits to Nicobar aren't issued in practice.

For foreign nationals: A Restricted Area Permit (RAP) is issued free on arrival at Port Blair airport, valid for 30 days, and covers Havelock, Neil, Port Blair, Mayabunder, Diglipur, and a defined list of beaches. Carry your passport at all times , there are checkposts. Foreign tourists can't visit Nicobar at all; this includes the Great Nicobar, Car Nicobar, and Camorta groups.

Tribal reserve areas: The Jarawa Reserve along the Andaman Trunk Road is technically passable for transit between South and Middle Andaman, but tourist convoys are regulated and stopping or photography is illegal. North Sentinel Island is fully closed and approaching it's a criminal offense , and dangerous, as the 2018 case of John Allen Chau demonstrated.

For more on travel ethics and risk in India broadly, see most dangerous place in India travel warning and most dangerous places in Rajasthan to avoid.

Real 7-day budget breakdown , couple, ex-Chennai

Numbers from my February 2025 trip, two adults, mid-range hotels, no scuba certification (I did one fun dive each):

Item	Cost (INR)
Chennai-Port Blair return flights, 2 pax	18,000
Makruzz Port Blair-Havelock-Neil-Port Blair, 2 pax	14,500
Symphony Palms Havelock, 3 nights	25,500
Summer Sand Neil, 2 nights	14,000
Sea Shell Port Blair, 2 nights	11,000
Food (lunch and dinner, 7 days)	9,500
2 fun dives (1 each)	11,000
Elephant Beach speedboat and snorkel	2,500
North Bay and Ross combo	1,400
Cellular Jail entry and Light show, 2 pax	280
Cabs and scooter rentals	4,500
Tips, miscellaneous	3,000
Total	~1,15,180

You can do the same trip for INR 60,000-70,000 by switching to Coral Reef and Pearl Park, eating at smaller dhabas, taking government ferries, and skipping the dives. You can also push it past INR 2,00,000 by staying at Taj Exotica and adding helicopter transfers and a private boat charter. For comparison with other domestic short breaks, see 2-day Lucknow trip itinerary best way to plan.

Comparison table - which island for which day count

Island	Suggested days	Best for	Hotel range (INR/night)	Signature activity
Port Blair	1	History, transit	2,500-9,000	Cellular Jail Light & Sound
Havelock (Swaraj Dweep)	3-4	Beach and diving	4,500-38,000	Radhanagar sunset, scuba
Neil (Shaheed Dweep)	1-2	Quiet beaches, snorkel	4,000-9,000	Natural Bridge low tide
Ross and North Bay	Half day from Port Blair	History and snorkel combo	N/A (day trip)	British ruins walk
Diglipur / North Andaman	3 (extension only)	Trek, Ross & Smith	3,000-6,000	Saddle Peak trek

Where Andaman falls short

No real night life. Most cafes shut by 10 PM, alcohol is sold at government shops with limited hours, and the only "bar" experience is your hotel's restaurant. Coming from Goa? Manage your expectations.

Mid-tier food. I had two genuinely great meals (a fish-curry-rice plate at New Lighthouse on Havelock and a tandoori prawns dinner at Full Moon on Neil) and many forgettable ones. Most "continental" menus are sad. Stick to local seafood and South Indian.

Expensive flights, vulnerable to surge. A Chennai-Port Blair return that's INR 8,000 in October hits INR 22,000 in late December. There's no rail backup.

Ferry cancellations. In rough weather (and even on calm-looking days where the swell is high), Makruzz cancels routes with 6 hours notice. I had a Neil-to-Port Blair ferry cancel and had to rebook the next morning , losing my last Port Blair night. Build a buffer day before your return flight.

Limited true luxury. If you want over-water villas and a butler, fly to the Maldives. Andaman's top property is Taj Exotica, which is good but not in that league.

The Nicobar question. Roughly 70% of the union territory's land area is closed to all tourists. People don't always realize this when they book "Andaman & Nicobar trip" and then learn the Nicobar half is off-limits. For genuinely peaceful island spots that are actually accessible, see most calming place to go top travel picks and most beautiful travel destination worth visiting.

FAQ

1. Is Andaman safe for solo female travelers?
Yes, broadly. I've spoken with three women who solo-traveled here and all reported feeling safer than in most mainland Indian cities. Hotels in Havelock and Neil are used to solo guests. Catcalling exists but is rarer than in Delhi or Mumbai.

2. Can I do Andaman as a 4-day trip?
Technically yes - fly Chennai-Port Blair Friday morning, ferry to Havelock same afternoon, two full days, ferry back Monday morning, fly home Monday evening. But you'll be exhausted, you'll skip Neil entirely, and one bad-weather day breaks the plan. Six days minimum, seven is better.

3. Is it ethical to "see" the Andamanese tribes?
No. The Sentinelese, Jarawa, and Onge are protected, and any tourism that approaches them is illegal under Indian law and ethically indefensible. The Andaman Trunk Road through the Jarawa reserve is a transit route, but stopping, photographing, or interacting with anyone you see is a punishable offense. Visit the Anthropological Museum instead.

4. When should I book my trip?
December-January travel: book flights 90-120 days out, Makruzz ferries 60 days out (booking window opens about 60 days ahead), hotels 60-90 days out for popular Havelock properties. February-March, 30-45 days is usually enough.

5. Can I drink alcohol there?
Yes, but with friction. Alcohol is sold at government-licensed shops with limited hours (typically 10 AM to 8 PM, closed on dry days like Republic Day, Independence Day, Gandhi Jayanti, and elections). Most mid-range and above hotels serve alcohol. Beer at a Havelock cafe runs INR 250-400, a cocktail at Taj is INR 800+.

6. What about snake encounters?
Andaman cobras and pit vipers exist but are rare and shy. In seven days I saw zero snakes on land. The bigger concern is in the water - sea snakes are common around dive sites, venomous, but extremely non-aggressive. Saltwater crocodiles in mangrove and creek areas (like Wandoor) are the real risk - never swim outside designated beach zones.

7. Are mobile networks and internet reliable?
Jio and Airtel work on Port Blair, Havelock, and Neil. Speeds are 4G but slow, especially evenings. BSNL is most reliable in remote areas. Most hotels have Wi-Fi but it's slow - don't plan on remote-working without testing first.

8. What should I pack that I might forget?
Reef-safe sunscreen, water shoes for coral beaches like Bharatpur and Howrah Bridge, a dry bag for ferry rides, motion-sickness tablets, a power bank, and a refillable water bottle. Cash matters more than you'd think . Many shacks and dhabas don't take UPI reliably because of the patchy internet.

So , are they worth visiting?

Yes, with caveats. If you've at least 6-7 days, can absorb a possible weather delay, are cool with mid-range food, and your goal is beach-time plus diving plus a serious history stop at Cellular Jail, the Andamans deliver. Radhanagar at sunset really is that good. The Light & Sound show at the jail genuinely moved me. A morning fun dive at Lighthouse with 25-meter visibility was the best dive I've had in India.

But if you're picking between Andaman and somewhere like Phuket or Langkawi for the same money and a similar timeframe, Southeast Asia wins on food, nightlife, and ferry reliability. Andaman is where you go when you want India's beaches done right, the history matters to you, and you've decided not to leave the country this trip. That was my reasoning, and I'd make the same call again.

Just don't pretend Nicobar is on the table. It isn't.

External references:
- Andaman and Nicobar Islands , Wikipedia
- Andaman and Nicobar Islands travel guide - Wikivoyage
- Andaman & Nicobar Tourism - official site

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