Cape Verde Complete Guide 2026: Praia, Mindelo, Sal, Boa Vista, Santo Antão & Fogo

Cape Verde Complete Guide 2026: Praia, Mindelo, Sal, Boa Vista, Santo Antão & Fogo

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Cape Verde Complete Guide 2026: Praia, Mindelo, Sal, Boa Vista, Santo Antão & Fogo

TL;DR

I planned my Cape Verde trip around four ideas: the Creole heart of Praia and Cidade Velha on Santiago Island, the music city of Mindelo on São Vicente, beach days on Sal and Boa Vista, and the hiking spine of Santo Antão with a side trip to Fogo Volcano. India passports get visa-free entry for 30 days with onward ticket. Best window is November through April, temperatures 22 to 28°C. Direct flights from Lisbon, Amsterdam, Manchester, and Milan land at Praia (RAI), Sal (SID), and Boa Vista (BVC). I spent roughly 1,400 EUR for 12 days. The country has 540,000 people across 9 inhabited islands of 10 total, ranks 110th of 195 on the UN Human Development Index.

Why Cape Verde in 2026

I picked 2026 for a few practical reasons that lined up in my favour.

First, visa. India passport holders get 30-day visa-free entry with onward ticket and hotel booking. The 2024 reform removed embassy application and airport arrival fee steps.

Second, the flight network grew. TAP Portugal runs daily Lisbon connections to Praia, Sal, and Boa Vista, with code-share onto Mindelo. TUI flies weekly charters from Manchester, Brussels, and Düsseldorf direct to Boa Vista. From India I routed Mumbai to Lisbon on TAP, then a 4-hour hop to Sal for roughly 78,000 INR return in shoulder season.

Third, 2026 marks 50 years since Cesária Évora performed her first paid show at Café Royal in Mindelo. The São Vicente carnaval programme in February folded her catalogue into the parade.

Fourth, the package market matured. European tour operators sell 7-night all-inclusive at Riu Funaná on Sal from 890 EUR per person flying from Lisbon. I built my own trip for similar money but covered six islands.

Fifth, the archipelago stays small. 10 islands, none crowded. After the September 2025 CV Interilhas ferry consolidation, inter-island schedules became predictable.

Background: From Uninhabited Atlantic Rocks to Creole Republic

Cape Verde is the only African nation that was empty before European arrival. Portuguese navigators Diogo Gomes and Antonio de Noli sighted the islands in 1456 while looking for a wind route around the West African bulge.

Settlement began in 1462 on Santiago. Ribeira Grande, later renamed Cidade Velha, became the first permanent European tropical colony and the first sub-Saharan European city in the tropics. Henry the Navigator's death in 1460 had not stopped the project; King Afonso V granted the captaincies to Noli and Diogo Afonso.

The islands' position 570 kilometres off Mauritania made them the logical Atlantic slave market. From the 1470s through formal abolition by Portugal in 1869, ships carried captives from Senegal, Guinea, and the Mina Coast to Cidade Velha's pillory square, then onward to Brazil and the Caribbean. Estimates put total Atlantic crossings at 8.5 million people, with Cape Verde acting as transshipment hub for roughly 25 percent of voyages during the peak 16th and 17th centuries.

The cathedral of Cidade Velha, completed in 1556, was the first Catholic cathedral built in the tropics. Fort Real de São Felipe followed in 1587 after Francis Drake's raid of 1585 burned the lower town. Both sit inside the UNESCO World Heritage zone inscribed in 2009.

The Salazar fascist regime opened the Tarrafal political prison on Santiago in 1936. Between 1936 and 1974 the camp held roughly 7,000 prisoners from Portugal, Angola, Mozambique, Guinea, and Cape Verde itself. Many died of malaria, typhoid, and beatings.

The independence struggle was led by the PAIGC, founded in 1956 by Amílcar Cabral. After the Carnation Revolution in Lisbon, Cape Verde declared independence on 5 July 1975 under President Aristides Pereira. A single-party state ran until 1991, when constitutional revision opened multi-party elections won by Carlos Veiga's MpD.

Today Cape Verde holds the highest UN Human Development Index rank in sub-Saharan Africa at position 110 of 195. Population is 540,000 across 9 inhabited islands of the 10-island archipelago.

Tier-1 Islands and Sights

Praia, Santiago, and Cidade Velha

Santiago is the largest island at 991 square kilometres and home to roughly half the country's population. Praia, the capital, has 130,000 residents and sits on a low plateau above Quebra Canela Beach.

I based myself for three nights in the Plateau, the old colonial grid laid out after the capital moved from Cidade Velha. The Cape Verde National Museum of Ethnography on the Plateau has fishing tools, musical instruments, and carnaval costumes. I paid 200 CVE entry. The São Filipe Fortress of 1587 frames the harbour view.

Cidade Velha lies 15 kilometres west of Praia. Aluguer shared minibuses charge 100 CVE one way. The UNESCO core zone covers 9 hectares and contains the Pelourinho slave pillory of 1520, the cathedral ruins of 1556, the convent of São Francisco of 1640, Rua Banana with its sea-pebble pavement, and Fort Real de São Felipe of 1587 sitting 120 metres above the bay. Fortress entry costs 660 CVE.

Tarrafal political prison opened in 1936 as Campo do Tarrafal. Between 1936 and 1974 it processed roughly 7,000 prisoners. The cells, the Frigideira (frying pan) punishment block where temperatures hit 50°C, and the cemetery now form a state memorial. The drive from Praia takes two and a half hours, crossing Pedra Badejo and Achada Grande villages.

Quebra Canela and Prainha cover Praia's swimming needs. The water is cold from the Canary Current.

Mindelo and São Vicente

São Vicente sits at 227 square kilometres, the sixth largest of the archipelago. Mindelo holds 80,000 residents and is the country's cultural capital. The British coal trade made the city wealthy in the 19th century; the Royal Albatross casino opened in 1849, and the Casa do Senador Vera Cruz dates from 1873. The house was restored in the 1990s as a small museum and event venue.

The five-day Mindel Carnaval each February is the largest Carnival in West Africa. I watched the Monday and Tuesday 2026 parades from the Avenida Marginal. Three samba schools march, plus the mandinga group whose dancers paint themselves black with motor oil. Crowds peak around 100,000.

Cesária Évora was born in Mindelo on 27 August 1941. She started singing in dockside bars at age 16, was rediscovered in Paris in 1988, recorded over 100 albums on the Lusafrica label, and won the Latin Grammy for Best World Music in 2003 with her album "Voz d'Amor". She died on 17 December 2011. The airport bears her name. Her former house on Rua Moeda is open as a museum.

Monte Cara, the 750-metre flat-topped peak west of the harbour, looks like a face profile. The south ridge hike takes four hours round trip. Calhau Beach has black sand. Sao Pedro Beach is pebble and faces the wind, doubling as the kitesurf base. Praia da Laginha inside the harbour is the only safe swimming beach in the city. Belo Sombra restaurant on Rua Lisboa serves cachupa rica for 850 CVE per plate.

Sal Island, Santa Maria, and Pedra de Lume

Sal is arid, flat, and 216 square kilometres in size, stretching 25 kilometres north to south. The island name means "salt" in Portuguese. Espargos airport (code SID) sits in the centre, 4 kilometres from Espargos town and 18 kilometres from Santa Maria.

Santa Maria runs along an 8-kilometre stretch of white sand. The Riu group operates four hotels here including Riu Funaná and Riu Palace Cabo Verde. Standard all-inclusive shoulder-season rate was 95 EUR per person per night when I checked in February. Independent guesthouses sit at 45 to 70 EUR.

Pedra de Lume Salt Lake is the country's strangest swim. The crater of an old volcano sits 70 metres below sea level, filled with brine so concentrated (between 35 and 40 percent salt) that I floated face-up without effort. Salt extraction started commercially in 1796 and the wooden hauling cables from the early 1900s still cross the rim. Entry costs 5 EUR.

Buracona, on the western coast 18 kilometres from Santa Maria, has the famous "Blue Eye". A collapsed lava tube with a circular skylight 6 metres deep frames a sun shaft that lights the water turquoise between 11am and 1pm. Entry is 200 CVE. Murdeira Bay on the west coast is the calmest swimming spot.

Boa Vista, Praia de Santa Mónica, and the Cape Santa Maria Shipwreck

Boa Vista is the third largest island at 620 square kilometres. It sits 50 kilometres east of Sal and faces the full Sahara wind. The Atlantic Sahara sandstorms that drop fine dust on Caribbean beaches start here.

The island holds 55 kilometres of beach. Praia de Santa Mónica is the longest single stretch at 18 kilometres of empty white sand on the south-west coast. The drive from Sal Rei across desert and dunes needs a jeep. Sandbox dunes inland near Praia do Estoril and the Belo de Areia tract create the desert-meets-ocean photograph.

The Cape Santa Maria shipwreck dominates the northern coast. The 1968 Spanish cargo ship M/V Santa Maria ran aground here in a storm. Its rusted hull sits 200 metres offshore and is reachable on foot at low tide.

Loggerhead turtle nesting runs July through October. Boa Vista hosts roughly 100,000 nests per season, the third largest worldwide after Florida and Oman. Permits for guided night beach walks cost 25 EUR.

The Riu cluster on the south coast opened in 2008 with Riu Karamboa and expanded to four hotels by 2018. All-inclusive rates run 110 to 220 EUR per person per night.

Santo Antão, Cova Crater, and Paúl Valley

Santo Antão is the second largest island at 779 square kilometres. It is the hiking capital. Ferries from Mindelo take one hour and cost 18 to 30 EUR through CV Interilhas; the boat docks at Porto Novo on the south coast.

Cova is an extinct crater at 1,170 metres elevation. The floor, roughly 1.2 kilometres across, holds a working agricultural community growing potatoes, sugarcane, and maize on the volcanic soil. I watched the cloud layer pour over the southern rim at sunrise.

The Paúl Valley descends north from Cova in a corkscrew of terraced fields. I hiked from Cova rim through Cabo de Ribeira, Eito, and Vila das Pombas over five hours. Sugarcane terraces, mango trees, banana plantations, and small grogue distilleries (trapiches) line the trail. A 200 ml flask of three-year-aged grogue runs 4 EUR at a roadside trapiche.

Ribeira Grande on the north coast is the island's main settlement. Hortência village and Chã de Igreja port further west host the fishing community.

Fogo Volcano and Pico do Fogo

Fogo (Portuguese for fire) is the most spectacular island. Pico do Fogo at 2,829 metres is the highest point in Cape Verde and the second highest in West Africa. The active stratovolcano last erupted from 23 November 2014 to 7 February 2015, destroying two of the three Chã das Caldeiras village clusters. Roughly 1,500 villagers were evacuated. Some returned within the year and rebuilt directly on fresh lava.

Chã das Caldeiras sits at 1,500 metres elevation inside the main caldera. The 2014 lava bed is still black, sharp, and warm to the touch in patches. Manuel Rua café preserves a buried doorway and back wall as a memorial.

São Filipe, the main town, holds 8,000 residents on the west coast. Ferries from Praia run four hours and cost 25 to 40 EUR through STM and CV Interilhas. A Cabo Verde Airlines flight takes 30 minutes and runs 70 to 100 EUR one way.

The Pico do Fogo summit hike from Chã rim climbs 1,329 metres over 3.5 kilometres, three hours up and two hours down. Guides charge 30 EUR per group. Loose scoria makes the descent harder than the climb. I went up at 4am for summit sunrise.

Tier-2 Sights and Smaller Islands

Brava is the smallest inhabited island at 67 square kilometres. Called the flower island for cloud-forest pockets above 700 metres, it has no airport and is reached by 2.5-hour ferry from Furna on Fogo. Nova Sintra holds the Eugénio Tavares memorial; Tavares wrote the early morna standards Cesária Évora later recorded.

Maio is the 4th largest island at 269 square kilometres and the quietest. Empty beaches, salt flats, a Portuguese fortress at Vila do Maio, almost no tourism. Ferries from Praia run four times a week.

São Nicolau holds the mountain village of Ribeira Brava, the harbour of Tarrafal de São Nicolau, and the Fajã and Carriçal pebble beaches.

Santiago's interior beyond Cidade Velha and Tarrafal includes Pedra Badejo, Achada Grande, and the Serra Malagueta national park where green monkeys (introduced from West Africa in the 17th century) cross the trails.

Chã das Caldeiras inside the Fogo crater is fragile. I spent one night in a guesthouse rebuilt on 2014 lava. The owner showed me photos of the original house in October 2014 and the same spot in March 2015. Permanent habitation here is debated and the government has tried twice to relocate residents.

Cost Table

Item CVE EUR USD INR
Visa (India 30 days) 0 0 0 0
Hostel dorm 2,500-5,000 22-45 24-49 1,950-3,950
Mid-range hotel Mindelo 6,600-14,300 60-130 65-141 5,200-11,400
Mid-range Sal/Santa Maria 8,800-19,800 80-180 87-195 7,000-15,800
Riu all-inclusive Sal 9,900-24,200 90-220 98-239 7,900-19,300
Pedra de Lume Salt Lake 550 5 5.50 440
Cidade Velha fortress 660 6 6.50 520
Buracona Blue Eye 200 1.80 2 160
Tarrafal prison memorial 200 1.80 2 160
Ferry Sal-Boa Vista 2,750-3,850 25-35 27-38 2,200-3,100
Ferry Praia-São Filipe Fogo 2,750-4,400 25-40 27-43 2,200-3,500
Ferry Mindelo-Porto Novo 1,980-3,300 18-30 20-33 1,580-2,640
Flight Sal-Boa Vista 25 min 7,700-14,300 70-130 76-141 6,150-11,400
Cachupa plate 550-1,320 5-12 5.50-13 440-1,050
Grogue shot 330-880 3-8 3.30-8.70 260-700
Strela beer 33cl 165-275 1.50-2.50 1.65-2.70 130-220
Aluguer shared minibus 100-200 0.90-1.80 1-2 80-160
Taxi Espargos-Santa Maria 1,650 15 16.30 1,320

Rough rate: 100 CVE equals 0.91 EUR equals 0.99 USD equals 79 INR at May 2026. The Escudo is pegged to the Euro at 110.265 to 1, so the EUR rate is effectively fixed.

Planning the Trip

Visa-free entry for Indian passport holders covers 30 days on production of onward ticket and accommodation proof. I printed both and was waved through at Sal airport in two minutes.

Peak season runs November to April. Trade winds drop, humidity falls, temperatures sit between 22 and 28°C. July to August brings short afternoon showers rather than monsoon. Sal averages 100mm annual rainfall; Santo Antão windward valleys catch up to 800mm. Cova and Pico do Fogo summit drop to 10 to 15°C overnight even in dry season.

Four airports take international flights. Praia (RAI) and Sal (SID) are the largest. Boa Vista (BVC) handles the package charter flow. Mindelo Cesária Évora (VXE) takes the Lisbon and Dakar feed. From India, the simplest route is Mumbai or Delhi to Lisbon on TAP, then a 4-hour onward hop. Total flying time including layover sits around 18 hours.

Inter-island transport splits between CV Interilhas ferries and Cabo Verde Airlines hops. The ferry network reorganised in September 2025 and now publishes a real schedule. Sal to Boa Vista runs a daily 1-hour fast ferry or a 25-minute flight. Praia to São Filipe (Fogo) runs three times a week for four hours. Mindelo to Porto Novo runs three or four crossings daily.

Rental cars are realistic only on Sal and Boa Vista. I paid 35 EUR per day for a small Hyundai on Sal. On Santo Antão the switchback roads need 4x4 and local experience; I hired a guide-driver for 80 EUR per day. Aluguer shared minibuses cover almost every village link for under 2 EUR.

Cachupa is the national dish, a slow-cooked stew of corn, beans, sweet potato, cassava, and either pork, chicken, fish, or chouriço. Cachupa rica adds multiple proteins; cachupa pobre is the simpler version. Xerem is corn polenta. Buzio is the local conch shellfish, grilled. Grogue is sugarcane rum. Strela is the locally brewed pale lager. Mealtimes follow Portuguese hours: lunch 1pm to 3pm, dinner from 8pm.

Portuguese is the official language; Crioulo (Kabuverdianu) is the daily speech, a Portuguese-based creole with West African substrate. Morna is the slow melancholic form Cesária Évora made famous. Funaná is the accordion-and-iron style from the Santiago interior. Cola-zouk is the contemporary club fusion.

FAQs

Do Indian passport holders need a visa for Cape Verde?
No. 30-day visa-free entry on production of onward ticket and proof of accommodation. Earlier the airport arrival fee of 31 EUR applied; that was scrapped in late 2024.

When is the best time to visit?
November to April. Cooler temperatures of 22 to 28°C, lower humidity, lighter trade winds, no rain. The Mindel Carnaval falls in February each year.

Ferry or flight between islands?
Both. Sal to Boa Vista flight saves four hours over the boat. Praia to São Filipe on Fogo flight is 30 minutes vs four hours by ferry. Mindelo to Santo Antão only runs by ferry (no airport on Santo Antão).

Beach holiday on Sal/Boa Vista or hiking on Santo Antão?
Different countries, same archipelago. If you have only 5 days, pick one. If you have 8 days or more, combine: 4 days beach, 3 days hiking, one day transit. The contrast is the point.

How fit do I need to be for the Fogo volcano hike?
The Pico do Fogo round trip is roughly 6 hours from Chã das Caldeiras to summit and back. 1,329 metres of climb on loose scoria. Reasonable fitness needed; no technical climbing. The last eruption ended on 7 February 2015 and the summit has been considered safe since.

Can I drink tap water?
Praia, Mindelo, Sal, and Boa Vista tap water is treated and safe for short stays. I still bought bottled in rural Santo Antão and Fogo where the supply runs through small village systems.

What plug type do I need?
Type C and Type F at 220V. Same as continental Europe. Indian travellers need the round-pin Europlug adapter.

Tipping?
10 percent in restaurants if service is not included. 1 EUR per bag for hotel porters. Aluguer drivers and taxis: round up to the next 100 CVE.

Portuguese and Crioulo Phrases

Phrase Portuguese Crioulo
Good morning Bom dia Bon dia
Thank you (m/f) Obrigado / Obrigada Obrigadu / Obrigada
Please Por favor Pur favor
Sorry Desculpe Diskulpa
How much? Quanto custa? Kantu ki e?
Welcome Bem-vindo Bem bin
Yes / No Sim / Não Sin / Nau
How are you? Tudo bem? Tudu dret?
Friend Amigo Nha amigu
Water Água Agu
Where is Onde fica Undi ki e
Bus stop Paragem Paraji
Beach Praia Praia
Mountain Montanha Munti
Goodbye Adeus Adeus / Te logu
I love you Eu te amo N ta gostal di bo
Bill please A conta por favor Konta pur favor

Cultural Notes

Cape Verdean society is one of the great Atlantic creole cultures. Roughly 75 percent of the population is mestiço (mixed European and West African descent), 25 percent of West African origin, and a small minority Portuguese descent. Catholic affiliation sits around 77 percent with a Protestant minority of roughly 10 percent. The Constitution is secular.

Cesária Évora carried the cultural name internationally. Nicknamed the Barefoot Diva for singing shoeless to honour poor women of São Vicente, she recorded over 100 albums after her 1988 breakthrough at age 47, won the 2003 Latin Grammy, and died 17 December 2011.

Morna sits at the heart of the music, built on the untranslatable Crioulo word "sodade" (a deep nostalgic longing that includes love, distance, and acceptance). Funaná uses the accordion (gaita) and the ferrinho iron-rod scraper; the colonial church banned it for decades as too African. Coladeira is the medium-tempo dance form. Cola-zouk is the modern crossover with Antillean zouk that fills Mindelo and Praia clubs.

Pope John Paul II visited Cape Verde in January 1990 and celebrated mass at Praia stadium, confirming Catholic identity as the constitution opened to multi-party democracy.

Manuel I of Portugal received Vasco da Gama's crew on the 1499 return from India, and Mindelo's port (then Porto Grande) became a British coal-and-water station from 1838.

Literacy reached 87 percent in the 2020 census. Sunday lunch with cachupa cooking from Saturday night is the family ritual. Grogue is distilled in family trapiches across Santo Antão and Santiago; pontche is the sweet liqueur mixed with honey or lime.

Pre-Trip Prep

Visa: India passport, 30 days visa-free, onward ticket and hotel proof printed.

Money: Cape Verdean Escudo from ATMs in Praia, Mindelo, Espargos, and Sal Rei. Euros accepted at almost every hotel and tourist restaurant; change in CVE. USD accepted at major hotels only.

Power: Type C and Type F plugs, 220V 50Hz. Standard Europlug adapter from India works.

Sun: Atlantic UV is high. I used SPF 50 daily and still burned on day two. Reef-safe formulations required at Boa Vista's protected beaches.

Clothes: Layers. Praia and Sal hot by day; trade wind keeps evenings cool. Cova at 1,170 metres and Pico do Fogo at 2,829 metres drop to 10°C overnight in dry season. A light fleece and a thin shell jacket cover both.

Footwear: Trail shoes for Santo Antão. Old running shoes for Pico do Fogo (scoria shreds new soles). Flip-flops for beaches.

Health: No vaccines required for India entry; yellow fever certificate only if arriving from an endemic country. Malaria is not present.

Insurance: Helicopter evacuation from Santo Antão or Fogo is expensive without cover. A 12-day Atlas policy ran 38 EUR including 100,000 EUR medical and evacuation.

Three Itineraries

5-day Sampler: Sal, Boa Vista, Santiago

Day 1: Arrive Sal (SID). Transfer Santa Maria. Beach evening.
Day 2: Pedra de Lume Salt Lake morning. Buracona Blue Eye afternoon. Sunset Santa Maria.
Day 3: Ferry Sal to Boa Vista (1 hour). Sal Rei orientation. Praia de Santa Mónica afternoon jeep tour.
Day 4: Boa Vista Cape Santa Maria shipwreck and dunes morning. Afternoon flight to Praia (1 hour).
Day 5: Cidade Velha UNESCO morning. Plateau and Tarrafal memorial on rotating choice. Evening flight out.

8-day Heritage and Music: Add Mindelo and Santo Antão

Days 1-3: Same as the sampler through Sal.
Day 4: Fly Sal to Mindelo (50 minutes) or Sal to Praia then onward. Casa Cesária Évora museum and Casa Senador Vera Cruz.
Day 5: Ferry Mindelo to Porto Novo (1 hour). Drive over to Cova crater. Hike Paúl Valley to Vila das Pombas. Overnight Ribeira Grande.
Day 6: Hike Ponta do Sol coastal trail or Chã de Igreja loop. Return ferry to Mindelo.
Day 7: Mindelo carnaval rehearsal nights if February, or live music at B-leza and Café Lisboa otherwise.
Day 8: Fly Mindelo to Praia. Cidade Velha morning. Evening departure.

12-day Grand Circuit: Add Fogo Volcano and Brava

Days 1-7: Follow the 8-day plan.
Day 8: Fly Mindelo to Praia, ferry or flight to São Filipe on Fogo. Town walk.
Day 9: Drive up to Chã das Caldeiras at 1,500 metres. Walk the 2014 lava field. Manuel Rua café visit.
Day 10: Pre-dawn climb of Pico do Fogo 2,829 metres. Summit sunrise. Descent. Recover at Chã guesthouse.
Day 11: Ferry to Brava via Furna. Nova Sintra village and Eugénio Tavares house. Overnight Brava.
Day 12: Return ferry Brava to Fogo to Praia. Final evening Plateau dinner. Departure.

Related Guides

  • West Africa Atlantic Coast Complete Guide: Senegal, Gambia, Cape Verde 2026
  • Lisbon Stopover to Africa Complete Guide
  • UNESCO World Heritage of West Africa Complete Guide
  • Active Volcanoes of Africa Complete Guide
  • Creole Cultures of the Atlantic Complete Guide
  • Slave Trade Heritage Sites Atlantic Africa Complete Guide

External References

  • UNESCO World Heritage Centre - Cidade Velha, Historic Centre of Ribeira Grande, inscribed 2009 (whc.unesco.org)
  • Cabo Verde Tourism official portal (caboverdetravel.org)
  • Ministério dos Negócios Estrangeiros e Comunidades, República de Cabo Verde (mnec.gov.cv, formerly ie.com.cv MAEC)
  • Wikipedia - Cape Verde, Mindelo, Cesária Évora, Pico do Fogo articles
  • Wikivoyage - Cape Verde travel guide (wikivoyage.org)

Last updated: 2026-05-18. Prices in CVE, EUR, USD, INR are May 2026 reference rates and shift with season and operator. Ferry schedules through CV Interilhas, TACV, and STM change quarterly; verify on booking. Visa-free entry conditions for India passports verified against the 2024 reform; carry printed onward ticket and accommodation proof.

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