Iraq Complete Guide 2026: Erbil, Babylon, Mosul, Baghdad, Najaf and Karbala

Browse more guides: Iraq travel | Asia destinations

TL;DR

I spent three weeks across Iraq in spring 2026, starting in Erbil's Kurdish north, looping through Babylon, Najaf, and Karbala, ending in Baghdad. Visa-on-arrival costs USD 75 for 60 days in federal Iraq, plus a separate USD 75 stamp for the Kurdistan Region. Flights from Delhi and the Gulf land daily. Book a licensed operator, dress modestly, and bring USD cash in large bills.

Why Visit Iraq in 2026

Iraq has reopened to tourism in a way that felt unthinkable a decade ago. Since March 2021, federal Iraq has issued visa-on-arrival at Baghdad, Basra, and Najaf airports for citizens of more than 30 countries, including India, the UK, the European Union, and the United States. The fee is USD 75 for a 60-day single entry. The Kurdistan Regional Government (KRG) runs its own visa-on-arrival programme at Erbil and Sulaymaniyah, also USD 75 for 30 days, and the two stamps can be combined with a land transfer at the Khazir checkpoint.

Civilian flights have resumed. Iraqi Airways flies Delhi to Baghdad three times a week, and Gulf carriers route through Doha, Dubai, and Istanbul. Mosul International reopened for limited regional service in 2024, and Najaf International has expanded to handle the Arba'een walk that draws roughly 20 million pilgrims into Karbala.

I went because the country sits at the foundation of recorded civilisation. Writing began here. The first cities rose here. For travellers comfortable with paperwork and a licensed guide, 2026 is a reasonable window before mass tourism reshapes the experience.

Background and Context

Iraq covers 438,317 square kilometres of Mesopotamia, the land between the Tigris and the Euphrates. Population is roughly 43 million, with Baghdad close to 8 million. Arabic and Kurdish are both official languages under the 2005 constitution. Currency is the Iraqi Dinar (IQD), trading near 1,310 IQD to 1 USD when I visited. Time zone is UTC+3.

The country gained independence from the British Mandate on 3 October 1932. The Hashemite monarchy ended in 1958, followed by Ba'athist rule from 1968 to 2003. The 2003 US-led invasion, the 2014 to 2017 conflict with the Islamic State, and the 2017 Mosul battle reshaped the security map. The current federal parliamentary republic was established by the 2005 constitution, with the KRG holding autonomy over Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, and Duhok (plus Halabja since 2014).

The KRG has been administratively separate and largely stable since 1991, with its own peshmerga security and visa regime. Federal Iraq south of Khazir requires more planning, including registered operator support in most provinces.

Erbil and the Citadel

Erbil felt like the right place to land first. The Citadel, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2014, rises on a tell mound 32 metres above the plain. Continuous habitation here goes back more than 6,000 years, among the oldest continuously inhabited urban sites on Earth. Sumerian, Akkadian, Assyrian, Median, Achaemenid, Sassanid, Abbasid, Mongol, and Ottoman layers sit beneath as I walked the perimeter wall at sunset.

I entered through the south gate, passed the Kurdish Textile Museum (free), and looped the rim in 40 minutes. Restoration is ongoing under the High Commission for Erbil Citadel Revitalisation, so several quarters are closed, but views over the Qaysari Bazaar below are remarkable. In the bazaar, I bought a kilo of Kurdish dates for 8,000 IQD and a brass coffee pot for 25,000 IQD. Minare Park, ten minutes north, holds the 36-metre Mudhafaria Minaret from the 12th-century Atabeg period.

I ate kubba in Sami Abdulrahman Park, kebab at Abu Shahab, and dolma at Talar restaurant. A mid-range hotel room near the Citadel cost USD 55.

Babylon

Babylon lies about 90 kilometres south of Baghdad, near the modern town of Hillah. I drove down with a licensed operator in two hours along the Babylon Expressway. UNESCO inscribed the property in 2019 after years of debate, recognising both the original Neo-Babylonian remains and the layered modern history of the site.

The Babylon I saw is complicated. Nebuchadnezzar II (605 to 562 BCE) built much of the original Ishtar Gate, the Processional Way, and the city walls. The original Ishtar Gate sits reassembled in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin after its 1899 excavation by Robert Koldewey. What remains at the site is a smaller reconstructed gate, the lion of Babylon basalt sculpture, and 1980s reconstruction that placed new brick over original foundations. The Hanging Gardens, one of the classical Seven Wonders, may have stood here or, by some accounts, at Nineveh under Sennacherib. No definitive remains have been identified.

I climbed the artificial hill that holds the former presidential palace and looked across the Euphrates floodplain. Entry costs 25,000 IQD. The on-site museum holds cuneiform tablets and reconstruction models.

Mosul and Nineveh

Mosul sits on the west bank of the Tigris, opposite the ancient Assyrian capital of Nineveh, which Sennacherib expanded around 705 BCE. The Old City was liberated in July 2017 after nine months of urban combat, and reconstruction has been ongoing under the UNESCO Revive the Spirit of Mosul initiative, funded by the UAE and the European Union.

I visited in spring 2026 with a Mosul-based guide. The Al-Nuri Mosque, with its leaning Al-Hadba minaret, is being rebuilt brick by brick after the 2017 destruction, with partial reopening scheduled for 2027. Al-Tahera Church, the Latin Convent, and Al-Saa'a Church have undergone substantial restoration. The Mashki Gate, one of the original gates of Nineveh, was restored and partly reopened in 2023 after Iraqi and University of Pennsylvania conservation work.

Across the river at Nineveh, I walked the mound at Kuyunjik where Sennacherib's South-West Palace once held the reliefs now housed at the British Museum. Sections of the city walls and the Nergal Gate lamassu sculptures (damaged in 2015 and partly restored) remain on site. I drank tea at a small place near the rebuilt Bash Tapia neighbourhood, where the owner had returned after seven years away.

Baghdad

Baghdad was founded in 762 CE by the Abbasid caliph al-Mansur as the Round City, designed as a circular capital of administration and learning. At its 9th-century peak under Harun al-Rashid, it was the largest city in the world and held the House of Wisdom, where Greek, Persian, and Sanskrit texts were translated into Arabic. Modern Baghdad holds about 8 million people.

I made Al-Mutanabbi Street my Friday ritual. The book market, named after the 10th-century poet, runs near Al-Rasheed Street and the Qishla clocktower. Booksellers spread Arabic poetry, used English novels, and Islamic philosophy on tarpaulins. The Shabandar café at the end serves tea in tulip glasses for 2,000 IQD.

Abu Nawas Street, the Tigris corniche on the east bank, hosts masgouf restaurants where carp is butterflied, salted, and grilled upright beside a wood fire. A whole fish for two cost 45,000 IQD with rice, salad, and bread. The Imam Kadhim Shrine in Kadhimiya district holds the tombs of the 7th and 9th Shia Imams under twin gold domes. Non-Muslim visitors can walk the outer courtyards with a guide and modest dress. The Iraq Museum reopened most galleries in 2015 after the 2003 looting, and now displays Sumerian, Akkadian, Assyrian, and Islamic collections across 28 halls. Entry costs 25,000 IQD.

Najaf and Karbala

Najaf and Karbala together hold the religious centre of Shia Islam, second only to Mecca and Medina for the world's roughly 200 million Shia Muslims.

The Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf marks the burial of Ali ibn Abi Talib, the fourth caliph and the first Shia Imam, assassinated in 661 CE in nearby Kufa. The current golden-domed shrine dates to the 18th and 19th centuries, with Safavid and Qajar additions. Non-Muslim entry to the inner sanctum is restricted, but the surrounding sahn (courtyard) is open with appropriate dress: women require a black abaya and headscarf. I sat for an hour watching pilgrims read from prayer books.

Wadi al-Salaam, the Valley of Peace, stretches behind Najaf as the largest cemetery in the world, with around 6 million graves over 6 square kilometres and continuous use for more than 1,400 years.

Karbala lies 80 kilometres north, accessible by shared taxi for 30,000 IQD per seat. The Imam Husayn Shrine commemorates the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad, killed at the Battle of Karbala on 10 Muharram 680 CE (Ashura). The shrine sits opposite the Al-Abbas Shrine across a marble plaza known as Bayn al-Haramayn. The Arba'een walk, 40 days after Ashura, draws an estimated 20 to 25 million pilgrims, mostly walking from Najaf, ranked among the largest annual gatherings on Earth.

Ur and the Sumerian South

Ur is one of the original Sumerian city-states, occupied from the late 4th millennium BCE and reaching prominence under the Third Dynasty of Ur around 2,100 to 2,000 BCE. UNESCO inscribed the Ahwar of Southern Iraq, including Ur, Uruk, and Eridu, on the World Heritage list in 2016.

The site sits 15 kilometres west of Nasiriyah in Dhi Qar governorate. The reconstructed Ziggurat of Ur, built by King Ur-Nammu around 2,100 BCE, rises in three preserved tiers (the upper temple is lost). Sir Leonard Woolley excavated the Royal Cemetery here between 1922 and 1934, recovering gold-leaf treasures now divided between the British Museum, the Penn Museum, and the Iraq Museum. The traditional birthplace of the prophet Abraham is identified at a mud-brick house near the ziggurat, restored ahead of Pope Francis's March 2021 visit. Entry is 25,000 IQD. I drove from Najaf in three and a half hours.

Hatra

Hatra was the fortified capital of a small Parthian-era Arab kingdom, flourishing from the 1st century BCE to the 3rd century CE. UNESCO inscribed it in 1985 for its hybrid Hellenistic, Roman, and Parthian architecture, particularly the sandstone temples to Shamash, Maran, and Allat.

Hatra suffered substantial damage in 2015 during the ISIS occupation. Reconstruction began in 2017 under Iraqi State Board of Antiquities leadership with Italian and Aliph Foundation support. When I visited in spring 2026, the central Iwan complex was accessible, and several damaged reliefs had been recompiled. The drive from Mosul takes two hours along the Tal Afar road, and a Ministry of Interior permit, arranged through a licensed operator, is required.

Samarra

Samarra was the Abbasid capital from 836 to 892 CE, stretching more than 40 kilometres along the Tigris. UNESCO inscribed Samarra Archaeological City in 2007 and immediately placed it on the World Heritage in Danger list.

The Great Mosque of Samarra, completed in 851 CE under al-Mutawakkil, once held the title of largest mosque in the world. Its spiral Malwiya minaret rises 52 metres in a continuous helical ramp, modelled possibly on Mesopotamian ziggurat tradition. The minaret survived a 2005 bomb blast, and limited climbing access has resumed under guard.

The Al-Askari Shrine, holding the tombs of the 10th and 11th Shia Imams, was bombed in February 2006 and again in June 2007, destroying the golden dome. Reconstruction completed by 2009 restored the dome. Samarra sits 125 kilometres north of Baghdad and requires advance permits for foreign visitors.

Halabja

Halabja sits in the Kurdistan Region near the Iranian border, 75 kilometres east of Sulaymaniyah. On 16 March 1988, during the final months of the Iran-Iraq war, the town was attacked with mustard gas and nerve agents under the Anfal campaign. Civilian deaths are estimated between 3,200 and 5,000. The 2003 Halabja Memorial Monument and Peace Museum documents the attack.

The museum holds photographs, personal effects, and oral testimony, and ends in a quiet hall listing victims by name. Photography inside is restricted. Halabja became the fourth governorate of the Kurdistan Region in 2014. This is not a casual stop, and I would suggest reading background before going.

Sulaymaniyah

Sulaymaniyah, founded in 1784, is the cultural and intellectual capital of Iraqi Kurdistan. The Slemani Museum holds the second-largest archaeological collection in Iraq, with strong Akkadian, Assyrian, and Old Babylonian holdings. Entry is 10,000 IQD.

The Amna Suraka (Red Security) Museum occupies the former Ba'athist intelligence headquarters, where prisoners were tortured between 1979 and 1991. The building was kept largely as it was after liberation in March 1991. The Hall of Mirrors holds 182,000 shards, one for each Anfal victim, and 5,000 lights for destroyed Kurdish villages. Entry is free.

Cost Table (Spring 2026)

Category	Budget (IQD / USD / INR)	Mid-range (IQD / USD / INR)	Luxury (IQD / USD / INR)
Hotel per night, Baghdad	40,000 / 30 / 2,500	90,000 / 70 / 5,800	200,000+ / 150+ / 12,500+
Hotel per night, Erbil	35,000 / 27 / 2,250	75,000 / 57 / 4,750	180,000 / 137 / 11,400
Hotel per night, Najaf or Karbala	25,000 / 19 / 1,580	60,000 / 46 / 3,830	150,000 / 115 / 9,560
Masgouf meal, Tigris (per person)	22,000 / 17 / 1,400	35,000 / 27 / 2,250	55,000 / 42 / 3,500
Kabsa or kubba meal	8,000 / 6 / 500	18,000 / 14 / 1,160	35,000 / 27 / 2,250
Internal flight, Iraqi Airways one-way	90,000 / 69 / 5,750	130,000 / 99 / 8,250	200,000 / 153 / 12,750
Shared taxi, Baghdad to Karbala (4 hr)	30,000 / 23 / 1,900 per seat	90,000 / 69 / 5,750 private	180,000 / 137 / 11,400 SUV
Licensed guided tour, per day	110,000 / 84 / 7,000	175,000 / 134 / 11,150	290,000 / 222 / 18,500

A two-week trip with mid-range hotels, internal flights, and a guide three days a week cost me about USD 2,400, excluding international flights.

Planning Your Trip

The best window is October through April. Summer temperatures from June to early September regularly exceed 45 Celsius and have crossed 50 Celsius in Basra. October to mid-November and March to mid-April delivered me daytime highs of 24 to 30 Celsius. December and January can be cold and rainy, with Erbil and Sulaymaniyah occasionally seeing snow.

Visas require planning. Federal Iraq visa-on-arrival costs USD 75 cash for 60 days at Baghdad, Basra, and Najaf airports for citizens of around 36 countries including India, the UK, the US, EU states, Canada, Australia, and Malaysia. The KRG visa-on-arrival is separate, also USD 75, valid 30 days at Erbil and Sulaymaniyah. The two visas can be combined on one trip via the Khazir or Kalak land checkpoints.

Flights are easier than I expected. Iraqi Airways flies direct Delhi to Baghdad and seasonal Mumbai to Najaf. Gulf carriers (Emirates, Qatar, Etihad, FlyDubai, Air Arabia) connect through Dubai, Doha, and Sharjah daily. Turkish Airlines flies Istanbul to all four major airports. Internal Iraqi Airways flights connect Baghdad, Basra, Najaf, Erbil, and Sulaymaniyah for 90,000 to 130,000 IQD. Shared taxis between Baghdad and Karbala or Najaf cost 30,000 IQD per seat and take 4 to 5 hours.

Federal Iraq south of Khazir generally requires a licensed operator under Ministry of Interior practice, particularly for Babylon, Samarra, Ur, and Hatra. Check the UK FCDO, US State Department, Australian DFAT, or Canadian Global Affairs advisories and choose an operator registered with the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities. The Kurdistan Region is generally safer and allows independent travel. Avoid Anbar, parts of Diyala, and any areas designated by current advisories.

Bring USD in clean notes (USD 50 and USD 100) issued after 2013. ATMs work in Baghdad, Erbil, and Sulaymaniyah but can be unreliable elsewhere. Major hotels accept Visa and Mastercard in Baghdad and Erbil; smaller hotels, restaurants, and taxis are cash only.

Standard travel vaccinations apply (hepatitis A and B, typhoid, tetanus, MMR). Tap water is treated in Baghdad and Erbil but I drank bottled water throughout. SIMs from Zain Iraq or Asiacell cost 25,000 IQD for 15 GB. Plug type is C, D, and G at 230 volts. Drones are prohibited without prior permits.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. How fast is the visa-on-arrival process at Baghdad airport?
Around 20 to 30 minutes on a typical landing. Have USD 75 cash, your passport, return flight details, and hotel reservation ready. Officers occasionally ask for a sponsor letter from a licensed operator, so carrying the operator's contact details helps.

2. Are the KRG and federal Iraq visas really separate?
Yes. The KRG operates an independent immigration regime, and the visa issued in Erbil is valid only inside Kurdistan governorates (Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Duhok, Halabja). For federal Iraq, you need the federal visa, obtained on arrival at Baghdad or by crossing Khazir.

3. Can I access ATMs and use cards?
Limited. Bring USD cash. ATMs in Baghdad (Karrada, Mansour), Erbil (Italian Village, Empire World), and Sulaymaniyah work reliably. Cards work at major hotels but not at most restaurants or taxis. Budget 60 to 70 percent of your trip in cash.

4. Is alcohol available?
Moderately, with strict geographic rules. Christian-run shops in Baghdad's Karrada and Erbil's Ainkawa district sell beer, wine, and spirits, and some Baghdad and Erbil hotels serve alcohol. Najaf, Karbala, and Samarra are dry, and bringing alcohol into these cities is illegal.

5. What should women wear, especially in Najaf and Karbala?
In Baghdad and Erbil, modest dress (long sleeves, long trousers or skirt, light scarf in mosques) is sufficient. In Najaf, Karbala, Samarra, and Kadhimiya, a full black abaya and headscarf is required at shrines. Abayas can be rented at entrances for 5,000 to 10,000 IQD. Men should wear long trousers near shrines.

6. Can I photograph inside shrines and mosques?
Architecture and courtyards are usually fine outside prayer times. Inside the inner sanctum of major Shia shrines (Imam Ali, Imam Husayn, Imam Kadhim), photography is prohibited and phones are confiscated at security. Always ask before photographing people.

7. What is Ashura and Arba'een, and should I visit during these events?
Ashura, on 10 Muharram, commemorates the death of Imam Husayn at Karbala in 680 CE. Arba'een, 40 days later, draws 20 to 25 million pilgrims to Karbala, mostly walking the 80 kilometres from Najaf. First-time visitors are advised to visit outside these events due to crowds and accommodation limits.

8. Is Mosul safe to visit now?
Mosul has been under federal control since July 2017, with ongoing reconstruction under the UNESCO Revive the Spirit of Mosul programme. I felt safe in the Old City, at Mashki Gate, and along the rebuilt riverfront. Travel with a licensed operator and avoid late-night movement in unrebuilt districts.

Useful Arabic and Kurdish Phrases

I learned these in the first week, and using them earned warmer welcomes everywhere I went. Arabic (Iraqi colloquial) is spoken in Baghdad, Basra, Najaf, Karbala, Samarra, and Mosul. Kurdish (Sorani dialect) is the working language in Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Halabja, and Duhok.

Salaam Alaykum (Arabic) and Choni (Kurdish, Sorani): Hello / Peace be upon you, and How are you?
Wa Alaykum Salaam (Arabic) and Bashim, supas (Kurdish): Reply to hello, and I'm well, thanks
Shukran (Arabic) and Spas (Kurdish): Thank you
Afwan (Arabic) and Shtek nia (Kurdish): You're welcome / no problem
Min fadlak (m) / Min fadlik (f) (Arabic) and Tikaye (Kurdish): Please
Na'am (Arabic) and Bale (Kurdish): Yes
La (Arabic and Kurdish): No
Ma'a salama (Arabic) and Khwa hafiz (Kurdish): Goodbye
Bikam? (Arabic) and Bachande? (Kurdish): How much?
Wein al-hamam? (Arabic) and Avdastkhana lakwaya? (Kurdish): Where is the bathroom?
Ana min al-Hind (Arabic) and Min le Hindistanim (Kurdish): I am from India
Ma afham (Arabic) and Tey nagam (Kurdish): I don't understand
Ta'al hina (Arabic) and Were ere (Kurdish): Come here
Kayfa al-haal? (Arabic): How are you (formal)?
Mumtaaz (Arabic) and Zor bash (Kurdish): Excellent
La shukran (Arabic) and Na, supas (Kurdish): No, thank you
Habibi (Arabic): My dear (common, friendly address)

Cultural Notes

Iraq is ethnically and religiously layered. Arabs make up about 75 percent of the population, Kurds 17 to 20 percent, with Turkmen, Yazidi, Assyrian Christian, Chaldean Catholic, Mandaean Sabian, Shabak, and Armenian minorities. Shia Muslims are 60 to 65 percent, Sunni Muslims 30 to 35 percent, and Christians under 1 percent, down sharply from the pre-2003 figure of around 6 percent.

Iraq is the centre of Shia Islamic religious authority. Najaf is home to the Hawza, one of the two leading Shia seminaries (the other being Qom), and the residence of Grand Ayatollah Ali al-Sistani. Karbala, with the shrines of Imam Husayn and Imam Abbas, is the emotional centre of Shia identity.

The Yazidi community, centred historically in Sinjar and the Lalish temple north of Mosul, suffered a recognised genocide in August 2014, with around 5,000 men killed and 7,000 women and girls enslaved. The UN, European Parliament, US, and UK have formally recognised this as genocide. Lalish temple is accessible to respectful visitors with barefoot entry inside the sanctuary.

The Mandaean Sabian community, one of the world's oldest surviving baptismal religions, traces lineage to John the Baptist and performs river baptisms in the Tigris. Their numbers in Iraq have dropped from 70,000 in 2003 to a few thousand today.

Cuneiform writing emerged here around 3,200 BCE. The Code of Hammurabi was inscribed around 1,754 BCE. The Sumerian, Akkadian, Babylonian, and Assyrian civilisations each left layers visible at Ur, Uruk, Eridu, Babylon, Nineveh, and Nimrud.

Pre-Trip Preparation Checklist

Visa-on-arrival: USD 75 cash for federal Iraq and KRG separately if combining
Licensed operator: required in practice for Babylon, Samarra, Ur, Hatra, and Mosul (Ministry of Interior permits)
Insurance: travel medical insurance covering Iraq with evacuation; many policies exclude Iraq by default
USD cash: clean USD 50 and USD 100 notes issued after 2013
Clothing: long sleeves, long trousers or skirts; abaya and headscarf for shrines (rentable on site)
Plug adapters: type C, D, and G at 230 volts
Local SIM: Zain Iraq or Asiacell, 25,000 IQD for 15 GB
No drone without Ministry of Transport permit
Photocopy of passport and visa kept separate from originals
Government advisory: check on the day of travel

Sample Itineraries

Five Days: Kurdistan Region
Day 1, arrive Erbil, Citadel and Qaysari Bazaar. Day 2, Lalish Yazidi temple and Alqosh. Day 3, drive to Sulaymaniyah, Slemani Museum, Amna Suraka. Day 4, Halabja and Ahmed Awa. Day 5, return Erbil and depart.

Eight Days: Federal Iraq Highlights
Day 1, arrive Baghdad, Mutanabbi Street, Abu Nawas masgouf. Day 2, Iraq Museum and Kadhimiya. Day 3, Babylon and Karbala. Day 4, Karbala and Najaf shrine visits. Day 5, Ur from Najaf. Day 6, Samarra from Baghdad. Day 7, fly Baghdad to Mosul, Old City and Nineveh. Day 8, Hatra and depart from Erbil or Baghdad.

Twelve Days: Full Iraq Loop
Day 1, arrive Erbil. Day 2, Erbil Citadel. Day 3, Lalish and Alqosh. Day 4, Sulaymaniyah and Amna Suraka. Day 5, Halabja. Day 6, Mosul, Nineveh and Old City. Day 7, Hatra. Day 8, fly Baghdad, Mutanabbi Street, Iraq Museum. Day 9, Samarra. Day 10, drive to Najaf, Imam Ali shrine, Wadi al-Salaam. Day 11, Ur and Karbala. Day 12, Babylon and return Baghdad for departure.

Related Guides

Iran: Mashhad and Qom Shia pilgrimage circuit
Saudi Arabia: Mecca, Medina, Hajj context
Lebanon: Beirut and Baalbek
Syria: Damascus and Aleppo
Jordan: Petra and Wadi Rum
Kuwait: Kuwait City and Failaka Island

External References

Wikipedia: Iraq country profile, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iraq
UNESCO World Heritage Centre: Erbil Citadel (2014), Babylon (2019), Hatra (1985), Samarra Archaeological City (2007), Ahwar of Southern Iraq including Ur (2016), at whc.unesco.org
BBC News country profile: Iraq, bbc.com/news/world-middle-east-14542954
Lonely Planet Middle East: Iraq chapter, lonelyplanet.com/iraq
Wikivoyage: Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan, en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Iraq

Last updated: 2026-05-18

Search This Blog

Your Local Guide to Visiting Places | visitingplacesin.com